Happy August!

I'm off in a few minutes to teach a Quilting 101 class.  It's a 2 1/2 hour intro class that is one of my favorites.  The students walk into the classroom convinced that they can't do piecework.  In a very short time, I show them that yes, they can.  Plus, I give a nice chat about quilting history, tools, techniques and a little trivia, of course.

Today's block selection is Hole in the Barn Door, also known as Churn Dash.  It's an easy block to make, and it allows me to teach three piecing shortcuts:  quick-pieced half-square units, strip piecing, and fussy-cutting. 

Mike's Salad

Mike loves this salad.  I never really make it the same way twice;  it's one of those "clean out the fridge" sort of things.  But the basic ingredients never change.  The trick to this is to cut the fresh vegetables in uniform 1/2" pieces so that the dressing coats everything evenly and no flavor overwhelms.


In a large bowl, whisk 3 tablespoons of good olive oil, 1 tablespoon of lime juice, a teaspoon of seasoning salt, a teaspoon of chile powder, and a teaspoon of mixed herbs  (fines herbes de Provence).   Toss with a can of black beans (rinsed), a cup of corn kernels, a diced red bell pepper.    The longer it sits in the fridge, the better it gets.  Now for the fun part:   mixing in the leftovers.  Feel free to toss in grilled chicken, grilled pork, diced avocado, diced tomatoes (fresh or canned, even), diced blanched zucchini, carrot slices, celery, tofu, tiny cooked pasta, rice.... well, you get the idea.  After the salad has spent an hour melding flavors in the fridge, taste and correct the seasoning.  Often, it needs more acid (citrus juice or a few drops of champagne or rice vinegar) and salt (salt).

Quick Tip for a Dreaded Mishap

We've all done it--pricked a finger with a needle or a pin, and left a drop of blood on our project.  Don't panic!  Dip a cotton swab in some hydrogen peroxide, and press the stain 3 or 4 times.  Gone, like magic.  Of course, test on a scrap first, but I've never had this method alter color.  The old wives' method is to use saliva as a solvent, but saliva proteins will darken over time, and a stain will mysteriously appear at some point down the road. 

I wanted to make some accessories, so I did!   Weekender-sized tote bag  (20" x 15"), iPad cover with interior padding and elastic closure, wallet with interior zip coin pocket and bill pocket, steel-frame coin purse and box-shaped cosmetic bag (and a composition-book cover, not pictured) were all made from 2 yards of "Patricia" by Linda Swensson for IKEA, and 1 3/4 yards of lining fabric.  The telling yardage, however, is the interfacing.   I used 4 yards of Pellon Decor Bond, and just over a yard of Pellon Craft Bond.  Everything looks crisp and professional. 

It's What's Underneath that Counts

I'm back from vacation with a head full of new ideas and itchy fingers ready to sew.  One of my favorite things to make are bags--any size, any function, any style, any technique is fine with me.  I only insist on a few things:  precision sewing, high-quality hardware, and attention to construction details.
This weekend, my daughter came home to visit and brought a couple of yards of fabric with her.  She asked me to make her a large bag that could serve as a bookbag during the week, or an overnight bag for a weekend trip.  We had a pattern drafted in no time.  Total time from conception to finish:  about 5 hours. 
The fashion fabric for the bag is a home-dec weight cotton from Linda Svensson's "Patricia" collection from IKEA.  ($7.99/yd.)  We used a fabulous cotton print for the lining--I can't find a selvedge to get the designer and collection, but I'll check and get that posted for you.  I'll post some photos, as well.

The bag is 16 inches high, 18 inches wide and 5 inches deep, give or take.  Inside, there's a zipper pocket and two flat pockets.  The bag has two self-fabric strap/handles attached with steel squared-off rings and swivel hooks.  (The jury is still out on the swivels.  I may eliminate them.)

Tips for successful bag-making:

1. Interface!  I use Pellon's Decor Bond on the fashion fabric and the lining, too.  This gives a structured finish that is well supported but not stiff.  I fuse the interfacing to the fabric before cutting, which eliminates a cutting step and helps insure a smooth, tight adhesive bond as well.  Remember that your lining has a whole lot to support.  You can interface your pockets as well, but dress-weight fusible will work just fine in that application.
2. Sew and furnish the lining first.  There's a lot going on in a lining if you inset pockets, add magnetic closures, or install any number of useful features.  Mark your lining carefully.  I use a fine Sharpie to label each piece on the interfacing side.  Bag sides and bag bottoms can look a lot alike.
3. Take your time.  Precision cutting means your pieces will almost sew themselves together.  Precision sewing is the difference between a nice homemade bag and a handmade masterpiece.  Baste rather than pin when you can.
4. Keep your iron hot and use lots of steam.  The more you press, the better your bag will look.  A wooden spoon handle or dowel rod can help press inside seams.  Consider edge-stitching where appropriate to maintain a crisp edge.
5. Add a detail that's a signature.  I like an eyepopping zipper color.  Find a little something to add that will be your designer detail. 

Soft Ball for Babies

My washing machine is hard at work felting a blue wool ball for a special baby.  The ball is knitted, then felted, stuffed and sewn shut.  I'll hand felt the seam stitching into the body of the ball.   The knitting pattern is so simple.  I used a double strand of 100% wool yarn with no plies that resembles a hand-spun, and size 8 needles.
The ball is shaped with short rows, which makes it a very fast project. 

Cast on 28 stitches.
Row 1:  Knit 20
Row 2:  Knit 12
Row 3:  Knit 14
Row 4:  Knit 16
Row 5:  Knit 18
Row 6:  Knit 20
Row 7:  Knit 22
Row 8:  Knit 24
Row 9:  Knit 26
Row 10:  Knit 28
Repeat this pattern 10 times, for 100 rows.  Bind off knitwise, loosely.  Felt by machine, or hand felt.  Sew 1/2 of the side seam, stuff firmly, sew almost closed and check to make sure the ball is stuffed to the firmness you desire.  Close seam.  Using very hot tap water and a drop of soap, handfelt the seam stitches into the body of the ball.

I'll post some pictures when the ball is complete!

Lined Applique

I've been so busy making class samples! Last week I made a table runner that features a combination of pieced and appliqued blocks. The pattern as given uses bright spring colors and plain appliqued leaves, but I like to get a big head start on my holiday sewing.  So, I adapted the pattern for a few newly-released Christmas fabrics.

Here's a detail of the applique blocks.  It's a smidge dark, but you can see the center vein of the leaf, which attaches it to the blank square and serves as quilting, too.  See the berries?  Nickel-sized yo-yos!

The appliqued holly leaves were easy to do. Here's how!

Layer your applique fabric right sides together, and trace around your template with a marking pencil. I drew my motif onto an index card and cut it out for a template. Don't make any adjustment for seam allowances. Sew directly on the marked line.
Cut a 1/4" wide strip of scrap paper-backed fusible web, and apply that to the center of one side of the applique. Remove the paper. Cut out the motif a scant 1/8" outside the sewn line. Carefully cut a slit down the center of fusible web. Turn the motif through this slit. Use a knitting needle to push out the seam allowances, and carefully press the edges with the tip of the iron, avoiding the fusible. When the applique is well-turned and pressed, press the slit closed, adhering it to the other side of the motif. I used a pin to tease out the very tips of the points to make them crisp.