Hit the Ground Running

I lost a week to the worst sinus infection in recorded history, so I need to hit the ground running this week to catch up!  Before I put my game-face on and get down to work, I wanted to post about felt. 

'Tis the season to felt old sweaters, and I have a few tips and ideas if you need some ultra-quick gifts.  Before you hit the thrift stores to find old sweaters to use, check your own closet.  Any animal fiber will felt as long as it hasn't been treated to be machine washable.  (There is an exception:  muskox fiber, also known as qiviut. Since this is rare as well, muskox, it doesn't really count.)  Lop off the sleeves and cut up the sleeve seam.  I also cut the shoulder seams.  Seams can get really tough and thick while felting.  Throw the cut up sweater into a top loading washing machine set for the hottest wash available.  A low water level is fine.  Add a tablespoon of laundry detergent that does not have fabric softener added, and also add about a quarter of a cup of baking soda.  This helps eliminate the wet-wool smell.

Felting occurs when animal fibers are exposed to heat, water, and agitation.  When the process starts happening, it happens fast, so have some heavy gloves at hand to protect your skin from very hot water, and be prepared to fish a sample out of the washer every 5-6 minutes or so to check progress.  Optimally, when fully felted, the individual rows of knitting will no longer be visible.  When the felt looks the way you want it to look, stop the process with a cold water rinse.  Dry the pieces flat, on a pad of towels, overnight.

What to make with this amazing fabric?  It doesn't fray, so you can simply cut out 4" circles for coasters.  Sketch out a dome shape and stitch up a tea cozy.  Soft, flexible felt (mohair or cashmere, perhaps) can make a stunning muffler.  How about a reusable cup-cozy for carryout coffee cups?  Wool felt also makes lovely children's toys;  simple stuffed shapes are tough enough to stand up as pet toys, as well.  Seams can be left exposed, and look very nice with a pinked edge.  Double-stitch seams on stuffed items, and leave a full 1/4" seam allowance at minimum.

HoHoHolidays!

I still have Thanksgiving leftovers in the fridge, but I'm thinking about Christmas.  I have a lot of work to do to get ready, which means I need to be very organized.  Tomorrow morning, I'll make a master list, and order ready-made gifts online if I can.  I hope to be able to hit "free shipping" minimums, and of course I check retailmenot.com for coupons.  I'll make my sewing list and get materials lists together.  With any luck, I'll have most everything I need on hand already.  The only thing I am worried about being short on is time!

5 Ways to Use a Sticky Note

I keep a stack of sticky notes in my tool box.  They come in handy for:

1. Making a guideline for accurate stitching
2. Making a guideline for accurate corner-turns
3. Marking stacks of patchwork pieces when assembling blocks
4. Marking book and magazine articles for reference
5. Recording measurements of cut pieces when designing

I also use them to record when I purchased certain items, so I know how fast I use them up:  zippers, hardware, and interfacing.  I'm sure you'll find a dozen more ways to use these little wonders in your sewing journey!

Custom-ary

The construction step I enjoy least is marking.  And let's be honest--accurate marking is vital to a beautiful finished project.  I had an idea that just may help me make it a less tedious chore.  I picked up a sheet of gridded template plastic.  I am going to cut some custom rulers and use a paper punch to notch them perfectly, just the way a carpenter or jeweler might make a jig for wood or wire.  If I cut them wide enough, I can make notes on them as well with a permanent marker.  With another hole punched in the end, they'll hang flat on the wall, ready to help me increase my marking accuracy and streamline my work.  I use a cheap mechanical pencil to make marks.  The lead is fine and and is easy to remove.  Another tip:  if you're marking placement for tabs or loops, draw a little arrow to remind yourself to position them above (or below) your marking.

The Cutting Edge

All scissors are not created equal.  I have a dozen or so pair, which sounds like a whole lot.  And it is, I guess, considering I do most of my cutting with a rotary cutter.  But different scissors are best for different things.  Success at the sewing machine is completely dependent on accurate cutting.  You can't cut accurately with poor cutting tools.  Here are some things to keep in mind when building your cutting tool box.

Scissor cuff bracelet by Thomas Jaillot

• Do you have a local scissor sharpener?  If so, invest in high-quality scissors.  They'll last a lifetime if properly sharpened.  Yes, they're expensive at first, but in the long run they're the most economical option.  If you don't have a sharpener in your area...
• Sharpness counts, but so does weight.  Heavier scissors are easier to control and cut more accurately.
• Think about handedness and the size of your hands, as well.  I have large hands, so I look for generously sized finger holes, or no finger holes at all.  Spring-action scissors are good for folks who don't have a lot of hand strength.
• Bent blades = shears, for cutting fabric flat on a table.  Straight blades = scissors, for cutting above the table.
• Mark your paper-cutting scissors, and keep your fabric scissors out of reach.  Cutting paper with fabric scissors really does dull the blades very quickly.
• Keep a pair of very small, very sharp scissors in your toolbox.  Purchase "little sharpies" with short blades, so you have lots of cutting pressure all the way to their tips.  
• If you find a pair of scissors that work especially well for you, keep an eye out for a good sale and buy a backup pair.  Leave them sealed in their packaging until you need them.
• Thread snips are a useful tool.  I tie mine on a long, bright ribbon so they're easy to find on a cluttered worktable.

Slash and Burn

I'm teaching a class today that features mock patchwork.  We'll be layering 15" squares of fabric, marking a grid, sewing on either side of each grid line, and then slashing on the line to make some fun chenille accents.  Then, we'll cut away four of the nine top-layer squares to make the block look pieced.  It seems appropriate to use a slash cutter the day before Halloween!  When you're using a slash or chenille cutter, remember that the blade is exceptionally sharp, and the cutter can slip.  So use steady, firm, even forward pressure--you don't need too much--and start each cut with a snip from your little sharpie scissors.  This will help prevent a jackrabbit start that can lead to slashed seamlines!

Snow!

The first flakes of the season fell last night--a cold rainy, snowy mix.  There's no accumulation, but the cold front did give us the first real hard frost of the year.  Every blade of grass was sparkling early this morning.  But tomorrow's weather is the big story--an early nor'easter is expected to dump a significant snowfall.  The National Weather Service warning sounds pretty dire.  The snow is supposed to be wet and heavy, which means power-outage and tree-downage potential!  Stay safe, East Coasters!

Getting Ready for the Dance!

I wanted to add a new bag to my line.  I knew that I wanted a bag that was very functional, and I knew it had to be beautiful. But how about a bag that could do double duty? And that's how Devon was born. Definitely a handbag, sometimes a small tote, Devon is designed with today's modern woman in mind. Devon features a center padded zipper pocket sized specifically for tablet computers. Two large flat interior pockets hold the rest of your necessities:  your cell phone keys, anything else you carry every day. But sometimes you just need a little more room. Devon is deep almost 4 inches deep, and the padded center pocket is removable with heavy duty snaps that keep it in place when you need it and make it easy to remove when you don't. But don't think Devon is all work and no play. An innovative bead-and-ring closure is functional and fun. Devon also has the features you've come to expect from a Bucklebee bag.  It has enough structure to retain its sleek shape next to the body and stays trim no matter what you put inside. And of course, sumptuous fabrics, unexpected prints and happy pops of color that have become the Bucklebee hallmark are there as well. Devon is ideal for travel.

Look for this great new addition to our line at bucklebee.etsy.com on Friday!

Devon's center padded pocket fits all iPads, the Kindle Fire, all popular eReaders, and most other tablet computers less than 11 inches in length.

Freshman Mixer

People have asked me how I decide how which prints to mix when I'm constructing bags.  There's no easy answer to that.  Most often, I just start pulling fabric from the shelf and the right combination just jumps out at me.  It looks and feels right.  Sometimes, it's not that easy.  I try to pick up a color tone or a motif shape if I can.  If the bag has a theme--a western print, for instance--I try to find a lining that echoes that theme without being too cute.  I avoid "matchy-matchy" to quote Heidi Klum.  I'd rather have a totally  mismatched lining that's a fabulous fabric on its own than something expected.  I want you to look inside your bag and smile. 

To answer another question:  Yes, my zipper color choices are random 98% of the time.

Hang It Up

My workspace is very small, so I am always looking for vertical and off-site storage solutions. I use child-sized clip clothes hangers to store pattern, cut interfacing, and cut and fused component parts for bags.  I also have my photography diffuser and background clipped and hanging.  Interfacings are stored on the bolt, standing in an umbrella holder that is shaped like a huge tin cup.  My rulers are in an ancient stand-up letter file.  This saves lots of flat-surface space.  Manila folders are my best friends.  They are also in a stand up file, and contain pattern pieces and interfacing scraps.  I like paper folders because I can write notes on the outsides.  Another favorite organization tool is a card file pad that has a pivot binding.  I write my cutting sizes and instructions for my bucklebee bags on the cards--one bag per card.  It's small enough to toss in my purse when I go fabric shopping.  When it comes to storage, think outside the box.

Up and Running!

I announced the opening of my Etsy shop "Bucklebee" today! I have 7 bags listed; please stop by and take a look around. There's a link on the bottom of this page right to the shop--a few thumbnail photos of my listings are down there, as well.

Why Bucklebee bags? They're sleek, and designed to remain that way. The interior pockets expand toward the inside of the bag so they always look fresh and crisp. They're fashionable. Up-to-the-minute colors, styles and details keep you in step. They're unique! I design and construct every bag myself. Each bag is one of a kind. They're fun! Unexpected detailing will make you smile.

Yes, I will custom-make bags. If you have a special request, just let me know and we'll get to work!

Disaster Averted!

I made a custom Sally totebag for a friend. She picked the fabrics--a nice trio of rich fall browns and golds. When I got the bag outside, heading for delivery, I saw a big scorch mark on the upper cuff. Oh my. My heart sank.
Twenty-four hours later, the bag was delivered, and my friend was thrilled. How did I get the scorch out? Easy!
Back to our old friend peroxide. I used a white dishtowel, got it good and damp with 1.5% peroxide, and blotted the scorch. Then I left the damp towel over the stain for a full hour. I removed the towel and let the bag dry overnight. Stain gone.
If the actual fibers are burned, this won't work. But if the scorch is just on the fabric finish, you have a very good chance of rescuing your project.

No more OUCH!

I have been working with heavy fabrics, and doing a lot of precision work.  That means  pins, which mean sore, bleeding fingers and lumpy joins.  I was feeling pretty sorry for myself and my mangled fingertips, and figured that there had to be a better way.  And there is.

I bought a big tub of 200 binder clips at the local discount store for about $5.  There are three sizes of clips, and they completely fit my needs.  I've found some other benefits besides saving the integrity of my skin.  Since the clips are symmetrical, you can't get pricked by a hidden pin on the underside.  If you drop one on the floor, there's much less danger (your pets will appreciate this as well.)  I find that they hold just as well as pins when I am working with thick layers, and they're easier to move around.  They do not distort the fabric, which is very important if you're matching patterns or seamlines.  Best of all, you can apply/remove them with one hand.  I'm hooked!  There are specialty clips on the market just for sewing, but they are one-sided, which makes them less functional in my opinion.  They won't replace pins entirely, of course.  But I am happy to report that I made one of my big "Sally" tote bags yesterday and used four pins during the whole process.

Tabletop Studio

I've been looking for an inexpensive--very inexpensive--way to photograph my handbags in preparation for listing them for sale.  I am a terrible photographer.  I'm the person whose photos always have that rogue tree growing out of Uncle Murray's head, or a stray thumb (my own) peeking into the picture, or cut-off feet.  I just have no talent for snapping pictures.  After some research on various home-grown methods for photographing objects, I'm going to try the "Rubbermaid" technique.  This involves using a big clear storage bin as a light-diffusing box, and three desk lamps.  The background is white posterboard, tucked inside the bin.  I tried this last night with one lamp, which is all I have on hand right now.  Here are a few, unedited.

Certainly not fancy, but worlds better than my usual efforts.  I can't wait to see how the addition of two more sidelights change the results!

Rotary Cutting Tips

The rotary cutter looks intimidating, but it's such a useful tool.  Rotary cutting is a valuable skill to master.  For rotary success, follow these simple steps:

1. Find the corner of your acrylic ruler where the 1 inch lines intersect.  This is your 1 x 1 corner, and it should always be on the upper right.
2. Fold your fabric along its length.  Make sure the fold is along the straight grain.  The cut ends of the fabric will probably not be even.
3. Put the bulk of the fabric to your left.  Lay your ruler on the fabric, so that all off the cut ends of the fabric extend past the edge of the ruler.  Align a grid line of the ruler exactly on the fold of the fabric.  
4. Put your left hand on the ruler, and cut with your right.  Make a smooth, even cut, running the rotary cutter along the edge of the ruler.  Always cut away from you.  This is called straightening the edge. After your cut is made, click the safety switch.
5. Rotate your fabric so that the bulk is to your right.  Keep your 1 x 1 ruler corner on the upper right.  Find the grid mark on your ruler that you need, and align it to the straight  edge of the fabric.  Make another smooth cut.  
6. Remember to put some muscle into your left hand--plenty of pressure keeps the ruler from shifting.

Happy August!

I'm off in a few minutes to teach a Quilting 101 class.  It's a 2 1/2 hour intro class that is one of my favorites.  The students walk into the classroom convinced that they can't do piecework.  In a very short time, I show them that yes, they can.  Plus, I give a nice chat about quilting history, tools, techniques and a little trivia, of course.

Today's block selection is Hole in the Barn Door, also known as Churn Dash.  It's an easy block to make, and it allows me to teach three piecing shortcuts:  quick-pieced half-square units, strip piecing, and fussy-cutting. 

Mike's Salad

Mike loves this salad.  I never really make it the same way twice;  it's one of those "clean out the fridge" sort of things.  But the basic ingredients never change.  The trick to this is to cut the fresh vegetables in uniform 1/2" pieces so that the dressing coats everything evenly and no flavor overwhelms.


In a large bowl, whisk 3 tablespoons of good olive oil, 1 tablespoon of lime juice, a teaspoon of seasoning salt, a teaspoon of chile powder, and a teaspoon of mixed herbs  (fines herbes de Provence).   Toss with a can of black beans (rinsed), a cup of corn kernels, a diced red bell pepper.    The longer it sits in the fridge, the better it gets.  Now for the fun part:   mixing in the leftovers.  Feel free to toss in grilled chicken, grilled pork, diced avocado, diced tomatoes (fresh or canned, even), diced blanched zucchini, carrot slices, celery, tofu, tiny cooked pasta, rice.... well, you get the idea.  After the salad has spent an hour melding flavors in the fridge, taste and correct the seasoning.  Often, it needs more acid (citrus juice or a few drops of champagne or rice vinegar) and salt (salt).

Quick Tip for a Dreaded Mishap

We've all done it--pricked a finger with a needle or a pin, and left a drop of blood on our project.  Don't panic!  Dip a cotton swab in some hydrogen peroxide, and press the stain 3 or 4 times.  Gone, like magic.  Of course, test on a scrap first, but I've never had this method alter color.  The old wives' method is to use saliva as a solvent, but saliva proteins will darken over time, and a stain will mysteriously appear at some point down the road. 

I wanted to make some accessories, so I did!   Weekender-sized tote bag  (20" x 15"), iPad cover with interior padding and elastic closure, wallet with interior zip coin pocket and bill pocket, steel-frame coin purse and box-shaped cosmetic bag (and a composition-book cover, not pictured) were all made from 2 yards of "Patricia" by Linda Swensson for IKEA, and 1 3/4 yards of lining fabric.  The telling yardage, however, is the interfacing.   I used 4 yards of Pellon Decor Bond, and just over a yard of Pellon Craft Bond.  Everything looks crisp and professional. 

It's What's Underneath that Counts

I'm back from vacation with a head full of new ideas and itchy fingers ready to sew.  One of my favorite things to make are bags--any size, any function, any style, any technique is fine with me.  I only insist on a few things:  precision sewing, high-quality hardware, and attention to construction details.
This weekend, my daughter came home to visit and brought a couple of yards of fabric with her.  She asked me to make her a large bag that could serve as a bookbag during the week, or an overnight bag for a weekend trip.  We had a pattern drafted in no time.  Total time from conception to finish:  about 5 hours. 
The fashion fabric for the bag is a home-dec weight cotton from Linda Svensson's "Patricia" collection from IKEA.  ($7.99/yd.)  We used a fabulous cotton print for the lining--I can't find a selvedge to get the designer and collection, but I'll check and get that posted for you.  I'll post some photos, as well.

The bag is 16 inches high, 18 inches wide and 5 inches deep, give or take.  Inside, there's a zipper pocket and two flat pockets.  The bag has two self-fabric strap/handles attached with steel squared-off rings and swivel hooks.  (The jury is still out on the swivels.  I may eliminate them.)

Tips for successful bag-making:

1. Interface!  I use Pellon's Decor Bond on the fashion fabric and the lining, too.  This gives a structured finish that is well supported but not stiff.  I fuse the interfacing to the fabric before cutting, which eliminates a cutting step and helps insure a smooth, tight adhesive bond as well.  Remember that your lining has a whole lot to support.  You can interface your pockets as well, but dress-weight fusible will work just fine in that application.
2. Sew and furnish the lining first.  There's a lot going on in a lining if you inset pockets, add magnetic closures, or install any number of useful features.  Mark your lining carefully.  I use a fine Sharpie to label each piece on the interfacing side.  Bag sides and bag bottoms can look a lot alike.
3. Take your time.  Precision cutting means your pieces will almost sew themselves together.  Precision sewing is the difference between a nice homemade bag and a handmade masterpiece.  Baste rather than pin when you can.
4. Keep your iron hot and use lots of steam.  The more you press, the better your bag will look.  A wooden spoon handle or dowel rod can help press inside seams.  Consider edge-stitching where appropriate to maintain a crisp edge.
5. Add a detail that's a signature.  I like an eyepopping zipper color.  Find a little something to add that will be your designer detail. 

Soft Ball for Babies

My washing machine is hard at work felting a blue wool ball for a special baby.  The ball is knitted, then felted, stuffed and sewn shut.  I'll hand felt the seam stitching into the body of the ball.   The knitting pattern is so simple.  I used a double strand of 100% wool yarn with no plies that resembles a hand-spun, and size 8 needles.
The ball is shaped with short rows, which makes it a very fast project. 

Cast on 28 stitches.
Row 1:  Knit 20
Row 2:  Knit 12
Row 3:  Knit 14
Row 4:  Knit 16
Row 5:  Knit 18
Row 6:  Knit 20
Row 7:  Knit 22
Row 8:  Knit 24
Row 9:  Knit 26
Row 10:  Knit 28
Repeat this pattern 10 times, for 100 rows.  Bind off knitwise, loosely.  Felt by machine, or hand felt.  Sew 1/2 of the side seam, stuff firmly, sew almost closed and check to make sure the ball is stuffed to the firmness you desire.  Close seam.  Using very hot tap water and a drop of soap, handfelt the seam stitches into the body of the ball.

I'll post some pictures when the ball is complete!

Lined Applique

I've been so busy making class samples! Last week I made a table runner that features a combination of pieced and appliqued blocks. The pattern as given uses bright spring colors and plain appliqued leaves, but I like to get a big head start on my holiday sewing.  So, I adapted the pattern for a few newly-released Christmas fabrics.

Here's a detail of the applique blocks.  It's a smidge dark, but you can see the center vein of the leaf, which attaches it to the blank square and serves as quilting, too.  See the berries?  Nickel-sized yo-yos!

The appliqued holly leaves were easy to do. Here's how!

Layer your applique fabric right sides together, and trace around your template with a marking pencil. I drew my motif onto an index card and cut it out for a template. Don't make any adjustment for seam allowances. Sew directly on the marked line.
Cut a 1/4" wide strip of scrap paper-backed fusible web, and apply that to the center of one side of the applique. Remove the paper. Cut out the motif a scant 1/8" outside the sewn line. Carefully cut a slit down the center of fusible web. Turn the motif through this slit. Use a knitting needle to push out the seam allowances, and carefully press the edges with the tip of the iron, avoiding the fusible. When the applique is well-turned and pressed, press the slit closed, adhering it to the other side of the motif. I used a pin to tease out the very tips of the points to make them crisp.

A Fun, Free Online Toy

Hop on over to odosketch.com. Draw a picture--they'll save it stroke by stroke as an animated drawing. Fun, free, inspiring. And did I mention fun?

Soft Book for Babies

I needed a special baby gift.  I saw something similar to this in a magazine, so it was off to my work-table to design my own version.  Out came the scrap bag--I needed 16 different 2 1/2" squares in eight color families:  black/white, brown, red, purple, blue, green, yellow and orange.  I used a vivid multi-colored stripe for the outer cover and a crayon-drawing print for the inner cover.  Since all the fabrics were prewashed and all cotton, the finished book will be baby-safe.

I made eight 16-patch blocks that finished 8 1/2" inches.  I layered them with fusible cotton batting, stacked them carefully in the order I wanted them, and sewed up the center to make a total of 4 fat, soft pages. (Think of each page set as a two-sided mini-quilt.)  Each page features squares in the same color family.  I tried to fussy-cut as many squares as possible with simple images to add another layer of interest to each page.  I can just imagine playing "I Spy" with a toddler with this book.

Notice that I still have to sew up the opening I left in the cover for turning.  A few quick mattress stitches will do the trick.  You can see the flat, unbatted spine of the book in this photo.

The cover required just a bit of engineering.  I cut the outer and inner covers to extend around the page ends;  layered and quilted them.  But instead of using one piece of batting, I used two squares and left a generous half-inch unbatted in the center of the cover.  This makes a nice spine for the book.  I quilted the outer cover with a simple channel outline about an inch and a half in from the edges to keep the batting in place.  I've posted some pictures--I didn't photograph the blue or purple pages which are in the center of the book.

We're Having a Heat Wave!

Super-quick project for today: cooling neckbands to help beat the heat.  I made half a dozen of these yesterday in less than an hour!

The upper neck tie has been soaked in cool water. 

First, collect your supplies.  You'll need strips of cotton fabric, 4 1/2" by 45".  Then head to the big-box home store and pick up a bag of polymer granules in the gardening department.  I use Soil Moist.

Right sides together, fold your fabric in half lengthwise.  Sew across one end, then all the way up one side to make a tube.  Turn and press.  Find the center of the tube, and then mark 8" away on either side of your center mark.  You'll have marked off a 16" sector right in the middle.  Sew across the tube at the mark closest to the closed tube end.  Using a funnel, carefully pour no more than two tablespoons of granules into the tube.  Sew across the second mark. Turn the edges of the open tube end to the inside, and edge-stitch it closed.  Soak the whole shebang in cool water.  The granules will expand and expand to fill the center section.  Tie it around your neck, and let natural evaporation cool your neck right down.  It's amazingly effective in hot weather.  I made a couple out of bandanas, as well.  Take a look!

Quick and So Useful

Got 10 minutes?  Here's a quick, simple, and very useful project for you.  Cut three pieces of craft felt 2 1/2" by 4".  If you don't have any felt on hand, use cotton scraps and pink the edges.  Stack the fabric up, and draw a line down the center of the top 4" side.  Sew the layers together, and you have what amounts to a tiny fabric book.  Close the book, give the spine a quick press, clip the thread ends and enjoy your new needle book!  While you're at it, make two--one for hand needles and one for machine needles.  You can use a pigment pen to write needle sizes on each page.  No more needles floating around your work space or jammed into the side of a spool of thread!

If you get a bit creative, you can use cotton fabric for a "cover" for felt "pages."  What a sweet little party favor or thank-you gift!

On the Case

This week I've made 10 quick, simple cases for electronics out of ready-quilted fabric and bias tape.  I cut the bias strips 1 3/4 inches wide which is the perfect width for heavy fabric and a 1/4" seam allowance.  I'm using buttons and covered elastic hair-ties as closures.  I measure for placement of the buttons, use a seam sealant on the hair elastics.  When the sealant dries, I cut the tie in half and use several rows of straight stitching to hold it in place.  A second button covers the cut ends. 

Five Basic Tools

There are hundreds, if not thousands, of nifty sewing gadgets out there.  Obviously, your sewing kit should include scissors, a tape measure, needles and pins.  But there are a few other basics that will help save you time, money, and frustration.

1. A seam gauge.  This 6-inch strip of metal with a sliding pointer is one of the handiest notions.  It will allow you to mark even hemlines, check your seam allowance accuracy, and add seam allowances to patterns with ease.  Best of all, they're very inexpensive.
2. A thimble.  Find one that's comfortable and learn how to use it.  Most people wear a cap-style thimble on the middle finger of their dominant hand.  
3. A seam ripper.  Don't rely on a cheap seam ripper.  Spring for one with a large, comfortable handle and a fine point.  A seam ripper is the best tool for cutting buttonholes.  Put a pin across one end of an uncut buttonhole.  Insert the seam ripper at the other end of the buttonhole, cut toward the pin in one stroke.  The pin will keep you from cutting through the bound edge.
4. A fine-leaded mechanical pencil.  Trace a pattern, mark a seamline, write quick notes on a pattern piece. 
5. Very sharp pointed small scissors.  Tie a long piece of ribbon in a bright color to one of the finger-holes. You'll be able to find your scissors quickly on the messiest work table.  Use these little wonders to rip a seam, clip threads as you sew, stiletto-style to help feed gathers under the presser foot.  Never use them for anything else but fabric.

Updating a Classic

I made a quick table runner today from three Ohio Star blocks and two appliqued blocks.  I chose a very modern palette:  bright spring green, black, and white.  The fabric I used in the points of the star is a bold, graphic leaf print on a black background.  I drew my applique motif right from this fabric, keeping the clean style of the print in mind.  Quick piecing methods and machine applique made this project easy.  And as always, the design process was the most fun.  This contemporary style is unusual for me, and I'm very pleased with the results.  Sometimes you need to reach outside of your comfort zone.

Who says you can't get perfect points with quick piecing methods?

Satin stitch applique is clean and smooth, and lends a graphic quality to the overall design.

It's Never Too Early

I know, I know.  Summer is coming, and you're scrambling for fun things for the kids to do.  My Kid's Camp sewing classes are a perfect solution.  Kids 8 and older can sew and can learn to sew well, with the proper instruction and the right projects.  The tote bag below is a great project for beginning students, because it's used to teach machine basics and seaming, beginning patchwork, and satin-stitch applique.  Note that I replaced the tan canvas straps with straps that match the applique.

Kid's Camp classes teach more than basic sewing skills.  Your child will leave the class with a finished project, a sense of accomplishment, and pride in a job well done!  Register this coming Saturday for a tuition discount.  A full schedule of summer Kid's Camp classes will be available so you can choose the projects and dates that are best for your creative kids.

The Fabric of Our Lives

Why, oh why, is quilting fabric getting so expensive?

Last year, cotton prices almost doubled, and that means cotton fabric (and apparel) prices are up.  The good news:  worldwide production of cotton is exceeding projected yields by about 24%, which means that we should see prices ease a bit in the coming year.

So how can you maximize your fabric budget?

• Be frugal.  Think ahead about how you will cut your fabric, so that you only purchase what you need.
• Save and use those scraps!  Most of us save them, but not many of us actually use them.  Sort and store scraps in a way that makes them useful.
• Think outside the box.  I have a great twin-sized 9-patch quilt that I made from patches cut from old plaid flannel shirts.  
• Look for coupons for your favorite fabric stores.  This might mean signing up for an online newsletter or sales flyer.  The inconvenience of a few extra emails is easily offset by a "members only" coupon for 50% off.
• Use those coupons wisely.  Don't use them for small purchases.  Instead, use those savings on major purchases:  a bolt of muslin, 5 yards of 110-inch backing fabric, two yards of ultra-premium batik.
• Be in the know.  Chat with salespeople at your favorite fabric stores, and don't be afraid to ask about special offers and sales.  It might make a big difference, dollar-wise.
• Think vintage.  Shop online for vintage and second-hand yardage.  Check second-hand stores and antique shops for textiles, as well.  Last Christmas I made three aprons for my sisters from vintage cotton tablecloths.  Total expenditure for fabric:  $16.

A New Way to Shop!

And who doesn't love shopping?  I've just come from mysewingbooty.com and I had to share!  Mysewingbooty.com is a site where you can place a classified ad to sell your sewing supplies, books, patterns, fabric, and services.  Registration is free, and you deal directly with the seller, as you would on an online auction site.  As the word gets out and more ads are posted, this should be an excellent resource for needle artisans!

Choosing Fabrics for Patchwork

Choosing fabrics for patchwork can be a daunting task.  There are so many colors and prints available;  it's hard to know where to start and when to finish.  Here's a trick to make a foolproof fabric palette.


Fabric designers are paid to come up with fresh, fashionable designs in a wide variety of styles and colors.  If you hired a designer to choose your fabrics, you'd pay a fortune.  But there's a sneaky way to pick their brains for free!  Walk through the fabric store, and find a multi-colored print you just love.  I chose this unusual stylized floral.

 

Now, choose fabrics that are the colors that the designer used. Look in your stash, as well, for colors that match the designers.  Here are the colors that I found in this print:

Now, here's the trick--assemble the palette with colors in the same proportions that the designer uses.  In our sample print, there's a lot of off-white background, a lot of yellow and orange, and just a bit of turquoise.  Lay out your fabrics so that you can see the right proportion of each color to the feature fabric.

I never would have chosen these colors to work with on my own, but as you see, they work really well together.  Now,  put the feature fabric back on the shelf and you can get to work with an exceptional fabric palette.  To add more interest, find more fabrics in these colors to use throughout your quilt.  Thanks, fabric designer!  I'll find a pattern I like, use these colors in this proportion, and perhaps sneak in a bit of the feature fabric as an accent.  Remember to mix print scale and style to keep your quilt vibrant with visual texture and movement.

Kick Off

Today was the grand reopening of the store where I'll be teaching.  I talked to dozens of nice people.  I had four class samples to show:  a full-sized quilt top, a patchwork tote, patchwork coasters, and a pillowcase.  Folks seemed very interested in the summer classes for kids, and I'd really like to make that a success.  We had a lot of registrants, and the education coordinator was very pleased with the day's turnout, as was I.  Here's a pic of the Cottage Quilt.  It's a four-patch.  Each block is topped with an appliqued square.  The outer borders are pieced, with mitered corners.  Three people commented on the striped fabric in the border in particular.  That was a good fabric choice!

Sewing Pinwheels

In my last post, I showed you how to cut and prepare the pieces you'll
 need to make this Pinwheel Coaster.  Now it's time to sew!

We'll be using a precise 1/4" seam allowance, which is typical for most piecework.  Use a seam gauge to find a "landmark" on your presser foot to make this easier.

Make sure your fabric pairs are aligned at the corners.  Then sew a straight seam 1/4" on both sides of the pencil line.  Give your pairs a quick press, then cut your sewn pieces on the pencil line.  You'll have two squares made up of two triangles.  These are called "half-square triangles."  Press your half square triangles closed to set the seam, then open them up and press both seam allowances toward the darker fabric.  Use small sharp scissors to clip the "dog ears" off at the end of each seam.

Lay out all four of your half square triangles, arranging them to make a pinwheel shape.  Sew the left two half square triangles together, and then the right-hand pair.  Press the seam allowances toward the darker fabric.  Then sew the final center seam to make your pinwheel.  Press the seam allowances to one side.  Use your ruler, rotary cutter, and mat to square your block up to a perfect 5 1/2".

Lay your backing square face up on your batting square, and your pinwheel face down on top of the backing square.  Make sure everything is lined up at the corners.  Sew around three sides with a 1/4" seam allowance.  Trim the batting very close to the stitching line, clip the sewn corners diagonally, and turn  your coaster right side out.  Turn down 1/4" at the open edge, and use an invisible stitch to sew the opening closed.  Give your coaster a good press.  You can machine quilt your coaster, too.  Use a walking foot on your machine to keep it flat and square.  Great job!

Simple Blocks, Great Project

We'll be making two simple blocks from co-ordinating fabrics, then turning those blocks into coasters.  This is a quick, easy project and the finished coasters make an excellent gift.

5 1/2" Pinwheel Coaster

Let's start with the Pinwheel block.  Fold your fabric in half lengthwise, and make sure the fold is along the straight grain.  Then use your ruler, rotary cutter and mat to straighten the cut edge. 









Turn your mat so that the bulk of your fabric is to your right.  Make a precise, smooth 3 1/2" cut across the fabric.  Cross cut that strip into 3 1/2" squares.

 
Pair your fabrics up, with right sides facing.  Your pairs should have contrast:  dark fabric on the bottom, facing up, and light fabric on top, facing down.  With a sharp pencil, draw a diagonal line on each light fabric square.

 Each pinwheel coaster will require two prepared pairs of squares, and a 5 1/2" square of fabric for backing.  Also cut a 5 1/2" square of thin cotton batting for each coaster.

When your cutting is done, put a fresh needle in your sewing machine and fill a bobbin with medium-toned neutral thread.  Next step:  Piecework!

Happy Easter, Bunnies!

White chocolate, lemon curd and tiny cupcakes can make a show-stopping presentation.  Mold the white candy coating in the microwave, paint it on the interior of a plastic egg, pop it in the fridge for an hour.  It helps if you oil the mold first.  Slip the mold out, and you've got a white chocolate eggshell.  You can use pastel candy coating if you prefer a colored egg. 

I deepened the color of the lemon curd with a bit of paste food coloring before spooning it on to vanilla-iced mini cupcakes.

Surprise!

This past weekend I made a quick trip to Northern Virginia.  My three sisters and I had a little cake-and-champagne reception for my parents' Diamond Anniversary.  We were joined by cousins and old friends, and I think a good time was had by all.  I was in charge of table decorations.  The theme was obvious: diamonds.  I half-filled straight-sided clear glass vases of various sizes with clear diamond-esque vase-filler jewels, and tucked little LED lights down into the fill so there was plenty of sparkle.  Around the base of the vases I arranged nosegays of daisies--mom's favorite--and glass "diamonds" of various sizes, also accented by white lights the size of a grain of rice.  Very pretty, elegant, and easy.  Hopefully I'll have some pictures to post later this week.

The concept will work well at C hristmas time, if I mix the vase-filler jewels with tiny ornaments, or pinecones, or greenery, or snowflakes.  Perfect for a buffet table, or perhaps as an arrangement in my bay window.

Hired!

Pending a background check, I have a nice new job.  I'll be teaching sewing:  quilting, basic garment construction, and home dec.  The interview was really more of a show and tell;  I brought a lot of pieces and explained how each one could be broken down for a class setting, emphasizing basic skills.  I also had pictures of recent work that I've gifted away, and three written modules about basic fabric structure, tools, and fabric preparation.  I hope to use this blogging space as an adjunct to my class presentations, as well as a place to talk about what I love:  making things.

This is exciting!

 

Back to School!

I am heading back to the classroom, I hope!  Tomorrow I have an interview at a fabric store chain, where hopefully I will be hired as a sewing teacher.  I'm excited about the opportunity.  It's been a long time since I had sewing students, and I think I still have plenty to share.  Tonight, I'll get a portfolio of work together--patchwork pieces and garments--and we'll see how tomorrow goes.